Showing posts with label chilies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chilies. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

My Three Culinary Shadows

Three pantry ingredients I can no longer be without.  Each member of the trio brings an essential element, but lurking deeper within are mysterious savory subtleties.

I cannot be without molasses, balsamic vinegar and soy sauce.  I mix them together for marinades, glazes and vinaigrettes.  I use them as a triangular base to build bigger flavors.

They each come from different parts of the world, but combine to create something of a different planet entirely: sticky yet sharp, sweet yet earthy, salty and round.

Let me tell you what I love about each of the Three Shadows:



Molasses: The dark, syrupy by-product of extracting sugar from the cane.  White sugar bores me.  I prefer turbinado sugar for my dry rub and molasses for wet applications.  Molasses brings sweetness, but also a savory rich darkness.

Umami.  That fifth flavor, along with sweet, salty, sour and bitter.  I like my ingredients to bring more than just one note to the song.



Soy Sauce: Fermented soy beans with roasted grain, salt and yeast.  Aged then filtered and bottled.  From wine and beer to salami, kim chi and bread, where would we be without fermentation?

For allergy reasons, we use Tamari gluten-free in my house.  I often use soy sauce instead of salt.  Together with molasses, it balances the sweet with salty while delivering its own version of umami.



Balsamic Vinegar: The boiled and aged pressings of Trebbiano grapes.  Reduced over the years in casks of various woods.  I'm not using the century old stuff here.  Just the $3 a bottle stuff.

It brings that necessary tangy acidity with its own sweet woodsiness.  I like vinegar for providing a penetrating sourness and aroma.  It adds tart to the sweet and salt of the other Shadows, again with its own style of umami.

Where's the Heat?

The only core flavor not represented here is spicy. Add it in your own favorite way.  A hot sauce of some sort would be appropriate.  Something smokey like a chipotle works well.  If simmering the Three Shadows into a thicker sauce, chili flakes or poblano peppers make a good fourth player.

Already Asia, Italy and the Caribbean are represented.  Pick a spice from anywhere on the globe you like.  You know the heat tolerance of your audience.  Don't burn them.  Just wake them up.

How Will You Use Them?

Play around as you like, but here are three ideas:

Vinaigrette: Add one part each to three parts of toasted sesame oil.  Heat the molasses first or it will be too thick to mix.  Add Sriracha or another chili sauce to taste.  Shake well.  Adjust the proportion of Three Shadows to suit your preferences for salt, sweet and acidic.  Put this on salad, cooked vegetables or whatever you like.

Glaze: Add the Three Shadows in equal parts to a saucepan.  Add dried or fresh whole chilies.  Apply low heat and stir often.  Reduce it to the consistency of honey.  Remove the chilies.  Then drizzle over your favorite cooked meats and grill quickly.  Do not allow it to burn.  Or place the cooked meat directly into the pan and stir to coat.

Marinade: Microwave the molasses until warm then stir in the other Two Shadows.  Add hot sauce to taste.  Consider adding dried herbs or a squeeze of citrus.  Place in a zip-top bag or sealed container with your meat.  Top off with apple juice, wine or beer.  For small pieces of meat, let rest in the refrigerator at least overnight.  For larger cuts, marinate for a few days if possible.

I will revisit my friends, the Three Shadows, with future recipes in more detail.  Until then, play around with them and enjoy.

Tuesday, February 4, 2014

How to Make 86 Rub

Now that I'm rereading the title, you could twist that the wrong way.  Screw it.  It's staying.


I posted this recipe once before.  I use it all the time.  I always have a jar around.  I've shared it with my parents, in-laws and co-workers.  More than just a barbecue rub, it's a multi-purpose seasoning.  More than just a recipe, it's a process.  Customize it.  Put your own spin on it.  Do it a little different each time.

The Eighty Six Barbecue Rub

Ingredients:
Dried Chilies
2 parts Turbinado Sugar
1 part Salt
1 part Various Seasonings


You will also need:
Food-Processor
Jar with a Lid

I like using a food-processor to grind everything into a fine consistency.  This way the seasonings get into the meat better.  You could make this with pre-ground chili powder or paprika, but it will be much more coarse.  You need a decent food-processor around.  It's like a power tool for the kitchen, men.

Step One:
Measure your jar. Find out how many cups it holds and divide that by five. That will be “one part”.

Step Two:
Take the stems from a handful of chilies and grind them in the food processor. I get pasillas, arbols and anchos cheap at my favorite market, so I typically use those, but use what you like. I can't say that I count or measure them.  If you want to be technical, you should weigh the chilies so you know how much you use.  Maybe I'll do that one day.



I don't know how hot you like it.  This whole thing will take some experimenting before you get it the way you like.  I have to dial mine down a little because my family doesn't have my tolerance for capsaicin.

Grind the chilies for a half-minute or so until they've broken into little bits. Take the lid off the food-processor and take a deep whiff. If you have a cold. Or just love to sneeze.

Step Three:
Add the sugar and give it another spin. The graininess of the sugar will break the chilies down further. I like the turbinado (raw) sugar because it has more flavor than white sugar without the moisture of brown sugar. If you make this with brown sugar, it will clump together.

Step Four:
Add the salt and spin it again. I use kosher salt, sea salt or both. Adjust the amount of salt to your personal taste.  I try to never over-do salt.  You can always add, but never remove.

Step Five:
Add the seasonings. Whatever you got. Whatever you like. Onion powder, garlic powder, ginger, cumin, curry, ground black pepper, dry mustard. If you're feeling funky add celery seed, coriander or a tiny bit of anise. When you use seeds, add them before the finer seasonings.  Again, the graininess of the sugar and salt will help break them down.

Often this portion is a bit larger than the salt portion because I have so many good things I want to put in there. Spin it again.

Step Six:
Take off the lid, being careful of the atomized spices, and give it a taste. It should be intense. It should grab you by the boo-boo. You should get a balance of sweet, salty, spicy and savory. Decide now if you need a little more of any flavor. When it's done, pour it into your jar and stab some holes in the lid.

Step Seven:
Put it on anything. We put this on everything but cereal in my house. Of course, I like this on things I'll barbecue, especially ribs, but that's another post. For tips on barbecue or anything food, ask my cooking guru Alton Brown.

I chose this as my first food post because we will be referencing it in the future.  As I said, I put this on everything.  I dusted some corn tortilla wedges with it and toasted them in the oven for the Super Bowl.